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By: Danya Weiner
Mine and Deanna’s birthdays are two weeks apart, and each year to celebrate, instead of buying gifts for one another, we go out to a nice restaurant. Come mid-October, just before our birthdays, we try to carefully decide which restaurant we want to treat ourselves to. We usually try to go with something culinary adventurous, that we can’t go to with our husbands, who are both culinarily challenged. This year we couldn’t decide where to go, and we almost decided to postpone the celebration due to the lack of plan. On the night we had planned to go out, I was strolling down the trendy “Nachalat Benyamin” street, when I recalled that I had done a photo shoot at a cool new restaurant called 44. I called to make the reservation and the hostess explained that they were having a special evening that night-a Vietnamese grill night-on the outside patio of the restaurant. Total karma.
The night was amazing on all fronts. The food was divine, the music (live dj) was spot on and the overall vibe was something very different from the average Tel Aviv restaurant.
The chef and owner of the restaurant is what you call a real cook, and not your average restaurateur. She’s a women, first of all (you don’t see many female chefs here) and she opened up the restaurant completely by herself. She doesn’t like to define her cooking, but describes her style as “her interpretation of food she likes”. Deanna, and I’m sure a lot of other locals in-the-know, had never heard about the place. Osnat doesn’t work with any PR firm, like most of the restaurants in the city. It’s the kind of place that you hear about from word of mouth, and the loyal clientele are those who like to keep it that way.
Towards the end of our meal, when Osnat had just left the grill station, she came to have a chat with us, and we immediately offered her to collaborate with us. Within in a week we had already set up a date to shoot.
Osnat made three absolutely delicious dishes for the shoot. Both Deanna and I agreed that it was the tastiest shoot we had ever been on.
To get to better know the talented chef behind these fabulous dishes, we conducted a short interview with Osnat. Here’s what we found out:
Sour, Sweet, Spicy or Salty?
Osnat: All of the above. The Vietnamese and South Asian cooking usually always combine all four flavors in each dish. That cooking philosophy is rooted in the Buddhist belief of harmony. There is a Japanese proverb which states “each cook should demonstrate to his community all of the flavors combined together in order to serve their needs in the upmost fashion”.
Ingredient you can’t live without and ingredient you would never let enter your kitchen?
I can’t live without fish sauce. It’s not appreciated enough in the West, and it adds deep flavor to everything it’s used with. I would never work with Foie-gras. It’s just too cruel and I personally am not a fan of its flavor and texture.
Your three favorite dishes at your restaurant “44”?
Pho-clear brother soup with beef and rice noodles. Its health and happiness in a bowl.
Bon Che- rice noodles and crispy vegetables in a spicy sauce, with sliced grilled pork belly and a crispy eggroll.
Bahn Mi- A slightly sweet baguette, pate seasoned with five spice, siracha aioli, Vietnamese pickled vegetables and caramelized pork belly. The national sandwich of Vietnam.
Why the name “44”?
Named after our house cocktail: vodka, 44 ice cubes, 44 coffee beans, orange, and left to marinate for 44 days.
Strangest thing you’ve eaten and where?
Tapioca soup with cubes of pork blood. It sounds just as awful as it tastes. In my defense, I didn’t know what I was eating at the time. It was in Vietnam, everyone around me spoke only Vietnamese, and I was the odd one of the bunch.
Favorite spot in Tel Aviv?
Margaret Tayar in Yaffo. Its real food.
Where will we find you in five years’ time?
I will have travelled the world a few more time. “44” will hopefully expand with a more equipped kitchen, but with the same crowd and the same passion.
Top 5 Asian cookbooks:
1. Into the Vietnamese Kitchen by Andrea Nguyen
2. Thai cooking by David Thompson- aka, my bible
3. Asian Dumplings, also by Andrea Nguyen
4. The Chinese Kitchen by Eileen Yin-Fei Lo
5. Momofuku by David Chang
Top 3 Asian cooking blogs:
Indonesian Peanut Soup
Ingredients:
2 cups carrots, peeled and thinly grated
5 tablespoons shallots, finely chopped
5 tablespoons fresh ginger, finely minced
2 tablespoons garlic, finely minced
1 small red chili, seeds removed and finely chopped
1 cup smooth peanut butter
1 teaspoon soy sauce
5 cups vegetable stock
1 handful Kaffir lime leaves
3 stalks lemongrass, bruised
1 bunch cilantro, chopped
Fish sauce, according to taste
Preparation:
Crunchy Rice Salad
Ingredients:
1 cup jasmine rice
Oil for deep frying
3 tablespoons toasted peanuts, chopped
1 small red chili, seeds removed and finely chopped
1 lime, thinly sliced, preferably with peel (can be a bit bitter)
1 bunch cilantro, chopped
3 tablespoons fresh ginger, finely minced
½ cup grated toasted coconut
Preparation:
Nam Tok
Ingredients:
For the salad:
¼ cabbage, thick core removed and then finely sliced
1 red onion, finely sliced
1 handful bean sprouts
1 bunch fresh mint leaves
10½ oz./300 grams seared sirloin (medium rare), chilled and thinly sliced
4 tablespoons roasted peanuts, chopped
For the sauce:
1-inch piece of ginger, peeled and sliced
1 bunch fresh cilantro
2 shallots, sliced
2 stalks lemongrass, sliced
4 tablespoons fish sauce
4 tablespoons fresh lime juice
4 tablespoons powdered sugar
For garnish:
6 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
5 tablespoons crunchy rice (see recipe above), ground with a mortar and pestle
½ teaspoon chili flakes
Preparation:
Shalom! I started following your blog a month or two ago (can’t remember where I found it — maybe a US site called Apartment therapy? Faith from the Kitchn?) and really enjoy it. Congratulations on an interesting, well presented bite of cyber-space! Question: when I lived in Israel (Eilat and Jerusalem mainly, but with forays all over the country) twenty years ago, it was practically impossible to find any where that served pork, and I never ever saw it an a butcher’s shop or supermarket. Is it more available now, since Osnat talks about using it in two of her recipes?
Hi! Nowadays its quite easy to find pork, especially in the Tel Aviv area.
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Looks like a great list, several of these are my favorites as well. But there are also some restaurants on the list that I havent been to yet, should do something about that! Love your blog by the way, great concept and design!